This post marks the end of my incredible vacation at the Terceira island in the Azores Archipelago, Portugal. This is also my 300th post on this blog. I am a little sad to say good bye to the beautiful island but am very happy to say good bye to 2015. Today ends a very challenging year for me. I am looking forward to a new adventure in 2016.
This trip has been amazing and here is what I think captures the soul of Terceira:
Whaling and fishing tradition in a picturesque villageLushly green rolling hillsMobile milking of the cowsAll the delicious milk products: milk, butter, cheese, and yogurt.Friendly animals on the roadway (cows, goats, cats, dogs), anytime of the dayBreathtaking coastlines and rock formationBoats and bays – all water, all the timeBiscoitos’ swimming basin, complete with crystal clear aquamarine water and yellow ocean foamsBiscoitos’ dramatic landscape and north Atlantic waves punishing the basalt rocksVast and colorful sky that bewitches the mindSunsets that touch the soul and make me cry. Pictures are terribly inadequate to properly convey the beauty of this island.
Good bye, Azores. Good bye, 2015.
Cheers to more spectacular journeys in 2016.
Love and peace to all my new and loyal readers. ❤❤❤ Happy New Year!
Believe it or not, these are the natural swimming pools for the Azoreans. This is what they called the Ponta dos Biscoitos in the town of Biscoitos, located on the northern coast of Terceira Island. These are enclosures formed by mostly basalt rocks and some man-made structure. It is here I was the closest to the dramatic waves of the North Atlantic Ocean. This is my favorite place on Terceira.A big wave about to hit the rocksLook at that!The water fallsSigh…Aah…
Unspoiled by the tourists, the natural beauty of Biscoitos is unparalleled. These waves and the sounds they make will stay with me for a long time. This is why I travel. This is wanderlust.
This experience took place at
Northern coast of the Terceira Island of the Azores Archipelago
When I landed in Terceira, Miguel stood by the Azore Gateway’s little podium greeting the passengers. He told me that the full day tour is the best option since it included the volcano cave, Algar do Carvão, and this volcano lava vent is the highlight of the island. The icing on top is that the cave is only open on Wednesdays. As a dumb American who is not used to the Azorean ways, I asked why the volcano cave is only open one day a week. He said that he does not know but it’s probably because the cave is run by a non-profit organization, OS MONTANHEIROS, implying that there is no reason to open more than one day a week since they don’t want money!
Now, that’s a concept. Control the number of tourists to your natural beauty and have a balance in your work life because profitability is not your goal. Hmm. I believe Bhutan has the same policy.Tunnel that leads to the volcano cave.The decent down to the lagoon. The stairs went zigzagging down.Further decent. When I finally reached it, the lagoon was black and blue iridescent but infinitely deep. It also felt icy cold and wet in the air. With the dark surrounding and the iridescent water, the experience was surreal. The opening to the top as seen from the bottom. The opening is 148ft up vertically. However, this picture was not taken from the bottom. The darkness inside the cave made it close to impossible for my Samsung S5 to capture the beauty and the essence of the cave. This is one that must be experienced in person. Stalactites
It felt weird standing back at the tunnel entrance heading back outside. I know light is at the end of the tunnel. Do I want to walk through it?
This experience took place at
Algar do Carvão – Monumento Natural Regional
Porto Judeu, 9700-000 Angra do Heroísmo
Phone:295 212 992
Who would have thought that it could be so difficult to eat in Terceira on a Sunday afternoon? But it was. Very few stores were open in the UNESCO city of Angra do Heroismo. Luckily this pastry shop, Athanasio Pastelaria, was.
Apple turnover and almond pastryHot chocolate with ham and cheese quicheEspresso with cod and chicken puff pastry
When we were in the shop, many fellow tourists were also in the shop, talking about how few stores were open. I can see how tourism will definitely change this town, with how aggressive the travel agencies are marketing these trips with incredible deals (6 nights, hotel/round trip airfare/airport transport included for $699). I upgraded my package with a better hotel, a rental car and various day trips. Still, a trip to this pristine island for a little more than $1k per person? Amazing.
I would not be surprised if years later, there are plenty of shops open on a Sunday. My brunch was pleasant and delicious. The young woman in the shop spoke English and was friendly. The best part is that it was open on a Sunday afternoon. Happy happy me.
This experience took place at
Rua Sé 132
9700-191 Angra do Heroísmo
Phone: 295 213 702
I finally made it to another restaurant! At Hotel do Caracol, they serve regional food with an eye catering to the international tourists. You find a lot of beef on the menu and the waiter strongly recommended the steaks. I went against his recommendation and ordered the octopus.Breaded Octopus with Coriander Risotto. Ok, there. You cannot blame me for trying. Where have you seen breaded octopus on risotto before? NO WHERE. Yet, there was a good reason why you have not seen it before because it is just wrong. Breaded octopus kills all the flavor octopus brings and degrades the octopus to just a protein, any protein. The risotto was decent but made with way too much oil. In general, this was a very poorly conceived dish. It’s a mistake that is made by a novice chef who tries to do new combinations that just don’t work together. Spaghetti with Meatballs. My little photographer’s favorite meal is spaghetti with meatballs but she was so thoroughly disappointed that she could not finish the pasta. The pasta was way over-cooked; they were stuck together because no efforts were made to separately them; they were also randomly cut up into smaller pieces. The entire presentation was just weird although she did say the meatballs were decently eatable. In general, I find the service in the restaurants very slow in the Azores. Perhaps they work on a different pace. Parmesan cheese was not offered. Water was not poured. These are small things… yet they are pretty consistent across both four star hotel restaurants. I don’t believe this is intentional; I think they just work in a slower pace than what I expect as a New Yorker.
Service aside, this meal at the Hotel do Caracol was not good. 😦 I have got one more day of eating octopus…
This experience took place at
Hotel do Caracol
Cozinha do Caracol Restaurant
Angra do Heroísmo
Phone:295 402 600
My Sunday started out as a day of random exploration. I took my Opel Corsa along with my 12-year-old out on the open road with no destinations in mind, going wherever and stopping whenever we feel like it. No GPS and just let the forks in the road take us on our island adventure.
We got on the road to this look out point. It’s a tiny little road (only one compact car can pass and with stone walls on both sides) through the hills. We kept on climbing and climbing through the hills. The angle became sharper and sharper to the point that it felt like we were on a rollercoaster going up. My little Opel was making all kind of noise because this automatic car drives like a manual pretending to be an automatic, not knowing when to switch gear.
At one point, I became concerned. I was in the middle of nowhere with a child, in a car that I was not completely familiar with, going up on an angle that is closer to 90 than 45 degrees. But I was at the point of no return…Can’t U turn and even if I could, I was not sure I wanted to head downhill. Voila! I did make it to the top and got this awesome picture.On the way down, I was all pumped and decided to go down this very deep decline via a narrow cobblestone road in the town of Ribeirinha. I was stuck. The road was not big enough to have two lanes. Instead of backing up to let the cars through, I went ahead and became stuck on a very tricky spot next to the wall and inside a pothole. The loud noise my car made drew attention and men came out from their houses and cars. They were yelling at me by this point! In Portuguese! Loudly!
I was this idiotic American woman who stopped traffic and didn’t know how to back up. I was a little embarrassed. This Portuguese gentleman sensing my distress quickly came out of his car. Without one word, jumped into mine, maneuvered out of the pothole, and back my car up all the way to the paved road, with my 12-year-old inside. That took him about 5 mins.
This is wanderlust in the Azores. I got my adventure and more. I was very thankful for the hospitality the Azoreans extended to a single traveling female with a child. I could have kissed him! Lesson learned: I have got to learn how to drive a manual vehicle.
This experience took place at Ribeirinha, Terceira Island in the Azores Archipelago, Portugal.